Experiments in Coffee

I feel very lucky to be part of such an innovative and exciting coffee company. Every year I am continually surprised by the work that Emilio Lopez at Cuatro M is doing. From day one Emilio has been pursuing new ways to farm and process coffee, and each day that passes, his coffee seems to benefit from it tremendously. It's not that Emilio disregards tradition; in fact, he borrows a lot of knowledge from his elders, the ones who farmed coffee for generations before him. With that tradition in mind, he approaches his work methodically and inquisitively. He is not afraid to ask questions, to try new things, and to fail if he must. When you get him alone, around a fireside, with a few beers already down the hatch; it's no surprise that all he wants to talk about is coffee. He is obsessed! It's this obsession that makes his coffee top quality. Many farmers never interact with their coffee. They just own the land, and run the business. Not Emilio. He is at the farm everyday, often for 10 hour days. He's in the field demonstrating pruning techniques to workers, in the consejo cupping coffees everyday, at the pulping station making sure everything is working correctly, and on the patios sticking his hands in the parchment and bringing it to his nose for inspection.

It is a real mystery to me why Emilio has not gained more attention in the industry than he has. His coffee is stellar, his operations are immaculate, and his thirst for innovation is vast. He practically established the rediscovered trend of El Salvador natural processed coffees, which many producers since have tried to imitate, but lacking the knowledge and technique, failed to produce a desirable product. True, Emilio's notoriety has been picking up quite a bit the past 2 years, but I have the feeling he's really going to explode on to the scene in the next 2. It's only that he's been a step ahead of everyone else that he's gone relatively unnoticed.

Let's look at an experiment I recently had the privilege to take part in.

THE NATURAL VS WASHED DEBATE

                      Four varietals processed as naturals (upper right corner) and as washed (the 4 small squares in the foreground)

There are many people in industry that hold the argument that natural processed coffees take away from the terrior of a coffee, and that the only way to showcase the terrior is to wash the coffee. Some say that all naturals basically taste the same, and because of that you are unable to differentiate between varietals. To test this hypothesis Emilio harvested four different varietals off coffee from an experimental lot that he started 6 years ago and processed each as a washed coffee and as a natural coffee. This lot, which sits at a singular elevation of 1300m on el Manzano, contains four varietals that were planted the same day side by side. The coffee for this experiment were all picked and processed the same day. These varietals include:

1. Yellow Bourbon
2. Red Bourbon
3. Pacamara 
4. Kenyan

                                                                      Yellow Bourbon, Red Bourbon, Pacamara, Kenyan 

The cupping table was set with each varietal (each as a washed and natural) in a blind fashion. The test was to see if the varietal of each cup could be identified, and if the the washed and natural pairs could be paired. By cupping the washed coffee side by side with its natural counter part, we were able to directly taste if in fact the terrior was lost by the natural process.

It turned out to be a very difficult cupping. First of all, each cup tasted wildly different from the next, and some of the washed coffees tasted so sweet and juicy that some of us thought they were naturals. But after a few rounds, and some open discussion, we were all able to correctly separate the naturals from the washed. 

                          Sarah Mykkanen, Barista at Heart Coffee, Portland. And Brandon Smyth of Water Avenue, Portland 

Next was to identify the varietals. Again, this was more difficult than expected. The easiest to identify in both sets was the pacamara. It's crazy flavor profile and cup characteristics make it an easy target on any table. The washed coffees were for sure easier to identify. Everyone correctly guessed at the Red Bourbon, since we are all pretty familiar with it's profile. The majority of coffee grown in El Salvador is Red Bourbon.  The Kenyan and the Yellow bourbon threw us for a loop. We expected the Kenyan to be the brightest crispest coffee on the table, but instead it was the Yellow Bourbon that fit that profile. The Kenyan instead had a great floral bouquet, with aromas of tea-rose, and herbaceous tomato-like flavors (something I believe can be directly attributed to the El Sal terrior). 

Matching the natural sample with its washed counter part was by far the most difficult task. It wasn't that the naturals all tasted similar, because they didn't. In fact, it was that they tasted so much different from one another that made it difficult. It think it is safe to say the the terrior (as perceived in the washed coffee) was hidden amongst a completely new set of flavor characteristics in the naturals.

                                                                                     The four varietals on day of harvest 

So what conclusion can we pull from this? Unfortunately not a definitive one. This kind of experiment will have to be tested again and again, across many kinds of varietals, and across many different cuppers. I think it would make a great seminar/workshop at a future Roasters Guild Retreat or SCAA Event. 

Here are the statements that can be concluded from this particular cupping session. 

1. The natural processed coffees were easily distinguishable from the washed coffees. 
2. Amongst the naturals it was easily distinguishable that there was 4 distinct varietals present. 
3. Amongst the naturals the varietal identification was difficult, except for the Pacamara. 
4. Amongst the washed coffees it was easily distinguishable that there was 4 distinct varietals present.
5. Amongst the washed coffees it was easier to identify the varietals present

It seems to me that the whole debate boils down to personal preference. Those who do not like natural coffees will probably continue to nay say them. However, to those who say that you can't produce a clean, well processed El Salvadoran natural of high quality; I say bullshit. Emilio has nailed it down. The naturals coming off his patios are some of the cleanest, most flavorful, complex coffees you'll taste. 

My view on the whole debate is that we're comparing apples and oranges. Natural coffees and washed coffees are 2 different products, and should be treated and graded as such. What this particular experiment has shown me is that the natural process doesn't take away from a coffee's terrior perse, but rather changes the whole cup profile completely, thus making it a different cup of coffee. And I for one, am ok with that. As long as you do it well and the end result is tasty, then what is the big deal?